I started off my going completely the wrong direction! The closest Metro station to my hostel (Lucien L-Allier) is pretty much down the road... So I decided to go completely around the block... obviously it was not what I originally intended. To be honest, while I knew the Metro was an underground railway, I was surprised by how far down it actually was!! I had to go down three massive escalators to get to the station. Once there I managed to purchase some tickets... 12 tickets to be exact! You can buy 6 Metro tickets for $12, you can also get 1/2/3 fares. I must admit I originally though the 2 fares meant I could use each of my 6 tickets twice... but I got given 12 tickets instead!! While I managed to get the tickets easily enough... I then had a slight problem working out how to get through the barriers... which makes me seem kinda stupid but I assure you it looks a lot harder than it is. After getting some quick instructions from the guy in the ticket booth I was on my way and waiting for the Metro train.
I caught the Metro Place d’Armes station and after a quick squiz at my Lonely Planet Guide decided to see if I could find the Palais des Congres as this is where the conference is being held later on this week. The station is meant pretty much on the same block as the Palais des Congres though it did take a lil while as the entrance seems to be on completely the other side from the station.
Across the road was a lil park area – it actually caught my attention as there was this mist wafting out from it. It took me a minute to realise it was actually SPRINKLERS watering the grass!! As I thought I was meant to be heading that way I crossed the road and saw my first squirrel (the first of many!). I quickly snapped a couple of shots because as soon as he realised I was looking at him, the squirrel quickly disappeared up a near by tree.
Squirrel!!
After my squirrel interlude I finally headed to Place d’Armes and (after many references to my Lonely Planet maps!) I managed to arrive there without getting too lost. Now I’m pretty sure the literal translation of Place d’Armes is something like Place of Arms/Weapons and is apparently names after a bloody battle between early Montréal settlers and Iroquois natives. Obviously quite a popular spot as there was already a busload of American tourists there taking photos even though it was only about 9am in the morning. In the centre of the square stands a fountain known as the Monument Maisonneuver which is dedicated to Montréal’s city founder Paul de Chomedey, who actually came out to evangelise the natives!! There are four bronze panels around the fountain, which apparently depicts important moments in Montréal’s history, and a quote from Paul de Chomedey himself saying “I am determined to go even if every tree on the island into an Iroquois.” Amazing what you can learn while standing near a tour guide!!
Views of the Monument Maisonneuver
The square is also surrounded by some lovely old buildings including the Bank of Montréal (Canada’s first permanent bank), the New York Life Insurance Building (Montréal’s first skyscraper) and the Alfred Building (which apparently emulated the Empire State building... I’ll have to compare it when I get there!)
L to R: The Bank of Montréal, NY Life Insurance Building and the Alfred Building
However, the most impressive buildings (well if you ask me) lie towards the South of the square. First there is the Vieux Séminaire de St-Sulpice which is a seminary originally constructed for the Sulpicians (a Catholic Order), and next to that is the amazing Basilique Notre-Dame.
Outside views of the Vieux Séminaire de St-Sulpice and the Basilique Notre-Dame.
While the exterior itself is impressive enough, the real reason this cathedral is one of Montréal’s most famous tourist attractions would have to be its interior. From memory I believe it cost about $5 dollars to enter but it was definitely worth it. Unfortunately none of my photos really do it any true justice – so you’ll just have to take my word for it... (c’mon surely I’m trust worthy enough!!) I arrived about 5 minutes before the guided tour so I had a quick squiz around before the tour started. The tour (which came at no extra cost) went for about 20-25 minutes and was worth it just to learn more about the history of the cathedral (and Montréal itself).
Views of the main cathedral, one of the stain glass windows, and the private chapel
After leaving Notre-Dame I headed down Rue St-Jacques, a street that was considered to be the Wall St of Canada... in the 1930s!! However there are still some fantastic relics of those great heydays to be seen as you walk along – many of these old building have some great roman columns, statutes of lions/mermaids, and mischievous gargoyles adorning their exteriors.
Lion heads on Guardian Insurance Building, A loot holding gargoyle on the Lewis Building, and the former home of European Gold Reserves and the British Crown Jewel (in WWII) the Sun Life Annex & Old Sun Life Building.
From there I headed down to the Place Royale – this square marks the spot where the first fort, Ville Marie, was erected back in the 17th century. It currently houses the Old Customs House which was built in 1838 and was originally called Vieille Douane. It is now currently a Museum giftshop and connect underground to the Musée d’Archéologie Pointe-á-Calliére, which is a History & Archeology museum. It has a look-out which was the first place I headed to. From here I had a good look at parts of the Old Port area and could see all the way to the Biosphere in Parc Jean-Drapeau, as well as the fascinating, yet kinda ugly, Habitat 67 – a futuristic apartment complex built for the World Expo in 1967.
The Old Customs House & Habitat 67
From there I headed down and saw a multimedia presentation on the history of Montreal from the 1600s to now, which was very interesting however I did hear an American tourist ask the guide about the presentation ‘missing’ a few things, from which I gathered were about the separatist movement... however I’m not 100% sure as I wasn’t really listening. From then I headed down in to the crypt – I actually though this museum was kinda cool as the main exhibition was pretty much an archaeological site showing some of the original remains of the city. They also had a temporary exhibit on New France – or French history in North America – which was also quite interesting as well.
View of a cemetery from the 1600s, and a sewer from the 1800s
After lunch I headed down to the port area where I had lunch in a food court there. This was probably only the second time I’ve really had a language problem as the owners didn’t really seem to know any English, however I managed to use what little French I know to order lunch and pay for it effectively. Beside from this my biggest problem has been that people assume when you answer their ‘Bonjour’ with a ‘Bonjour’ of your own, they naturally assume you’re a French speaker and launch a stream of French at you. Normally the blank look I give them clues them in that I have NO IDEA what they are say... is normally followed up by “Oh – you speak English?” It actually quite interesting listening to them switch back and forth as they speak English with a Canadian accent (obviously!), which you know is a quite close to American and I guess... kinda has a hard quality to it... before switching back to French which seems very light and dainty... it’s almost like two different people are speaking!!
After lunch I headed to the Centre des Sciences de Montréal which has a few interesting exhibits. Highlight was probably the Mindball game where you put on this headband which reads your alpha and theta brain waves... the more you relax, the lower they go, and the more you can move the ball to the other end. I took on one of the guides... who I think let me win!! They also have this MASSIVE interactive video game... however I managed to miss the last English session which meant I didn’t get a chance to have a go L Maybe some other day!
My face imprint and the entrance to Centres des Science de Montréal
After lunch I headed toward the Place Jean-Cartier mainly because I heard there was a statute of Nelson at the top end! Of course this statue is slightly controversial among French Quebecers and there has been numerous attempts to remove the statue (the latest being in 1998) however it currently still stands. Further north there is now another statue, this time of Jean Vauquelin (an obscure French general) to help even the balance!!
Nelson a top his column, Sitting by the fountain in front of the Hotel de Ville (Montréal’s City Hall), and Jean Vauquelin
From here I went and saw the three courthouses and then had a wonder around Château Ramezay which was built for the governor of Montréal in the 18th century. He apparently ended up broke just trying to maintain it!! While it is currently a museum, I didn’t venture inside – just had a wonder around the ground which apparently is a recreation of an 18th century horticultural garden. From there I wander down the cobblestone roads of Old Montréal before ending up at the Chapelle Notre-Dame-De Bonsecours, otherwise known as the Sailor’s Church.
The gardens at Château Ramezay, Streets of Ole Montréal, The Old Marketplace, The Sailor’s Church
The interior of the Sailor’s Church, while not as amazing of Basilique Notre-Dame, was still very intricate and impressive. The church also had a museum attached about St Mareguerite Bourgeoys, Montréal’s first teacher and the founder of the Congregation of Notre-Dame nuns. It also had a nice lookout over the Old Port and a crypt showing the foundations of the original church. From here I decided to rest my tired feet in Parc du Bassin-Bonsecours near the lake before heading back to Place Jean-Cartier to have dinner in one of the many restaurants that border the plaza. Being a lil adventurous I decided to have the Monk fish in Madagascar Pepper sauce which was delicious... I even remembered to tip!!
Altar of the Sailor’s Church, Looking out onto Rue de la Commune Est from the look out, the view from Parc du Bassin-Bonsecours.
After dinner I headed back via the Metro to Papineau station as I knew it was near a supermarket and I needed to pick up a few various things. While I was here I decided to wonder down Rue St Catherine as I knew I was currently in The Village. The Village is the home to one of the most exuberant gay communities in the world, however I must admit I was kinda disappointed. Maybe it was cause it was a Wednesday night, or maybe it was because I didn’t really enter into the various bars and clubs I didn’t really find it that exciting. I do think that I saw more gay flags one two building than I think I’ve seen anywhere in Sydney & there were also lots of billboards of half naked men offering massages!! There was also a full length one with a hand barely covering everything offering me a 3 for 2... of what I’m not exactly sure... as well... I don’t read French. As I had nowhere else to be I decided to walk all the way down Rue St Catherine to my hostel on Rue Mackay, which is actually a pretty decent walk. It took me through various parts of the city, including UQAM, McGill and the Place-des-Arts.
Flags, Flags, Flags!! and a view of the Place-des-Arts
I must of one stage walked through the more seedier part of town, as for a few blocks there seemed to be an increased amount of clubs offering XXX videos and ‘danse contact’ or (in English) lap dances. There also seemed to be quite a few panhandlers around, while I couldn’t understand what they were saying, I think some things don’t require a language to be understood.
However before long I reached the central downtown shopping area and before long came back to my hostel. I arrived back around bout 10:30... happy but exhausted and ready to do it all again tomorrow!
1 comment:
Oh Nelson! The poor darling! They shouldn't remove him... though perhpas being French and all....mmm....I have been the the Basillca! It is stunning, so now you have my word for it too! I don't remember much else of Montreal however as it was -35'c the day I was there... we did have some good garlic prawns though....
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